This second edition has been designed to monitor the progress in develop- ment over the past few years and to build on the information given in the first edition. It has been extensively revised and updated. My thanks go to all who have contributed to this work. D.F.W. May 1996 Preface to the first edition This book is the result of a group of development scientists feeling that there was an urgent need for a reference work that would assist chemists in understanding the science involved in the development of new products. The approach is to inform in a way that allows and encourages the reader to develop his or her own creativity in working with marketing colleagues on the introduction of new products. Organised on a product category basis, emphasis is placed on formulation, selection of raw materials, and the technology of producing the products discussed. Performance considerations, safety, product liability and all aspects of quality are covered. Regulations governing the production and sale of cosmetic products internationally are described, and sources for updated information provided. Throughout the book, reference is made to consumer pressure and environmental issues-concerns which the development scientist and his or her marketing counterpart ignore at their own, and their employer's peril. In recent years, many cosmetic fragrances and toiletry products have been converted from aerosols to mechanically press uri sed products or sprays, and these are described along with foam products such as hair conditioning mousses.
1 Raw materials.- 1.1 Introduction.- 1.2 Basic surfactants.- 1.3 Mild anionic surfactants.- 1.4 Amphoteric surfactants.- 1.5 Non-ionic surfactants.- 1.6 Cationic surfactants.- 1.7 Shampoo and bath additives.- 1.8 Oil components.- 1.9 Waxes.- 1.10 Silicone oils.- 1.11 Cream bases.- 1.12 Oil-in-water (O/W) emulsifiers.- 1.13 Water-in-oil (W/O) emulsifiers.- 1.14 Humectants.- 1.15 Aerosol propellants.- References.- 2 Hair-care products.- 2.1 Introduction.- 2.2 Hair: structure and chemistry.- 2.3 Shampoos.- 2.4 Conditioners.- 2.5 Styling aids.- 2.6 Setting lotions.- 2.7 Other styling aids in spray form.- 2.8 Hair gels.- 2.9 Styling creams and glazes.- 2.10 Hair oils/brilliantines/pomades/styling waxes.- 2.11 Hair creams.- 2.12 Permanent waving.- 2.13 Bleaches.- 2.14 Hair dyes.- 2.15 Product evaluation and testing.- 2.16 Summary.- References.- 3 Skin-care products.- 3.1 Introduction.- 3.2 Anatomy and physiology of the skin.- 3.3 Test methods.- 3.4 Formulation.- 3.5 Skin cleansers.- 3.6 Moisturizers.- 3.7 Anti-ageing products.- 3.8 Sunscreen products.- 3.9 Acne.- 3.10 Liposomes.- References.- 4 Color cosmetics.- 4.1 Introduction.- 4.2 Lip color.- 4.3 Nail polish.- 4.4 Face make-up.- 4.5 Eye make-up.- 4.6 Preservation.- 4.7 Color coating.- 4.8 General considerations.- References.- Further reading.- 5 Baby care.- 5.1 Introduction.- 5.2 Specific basic requirements for baby products.- 5.3 Product types and their presentation.- 5.4 Raw materials for baby products.- 5.5 Developmental pathways.- 5.6 Product evaluation.- 5.7 Product safety requirement.- 5.8 Product preservation.- 5.9 Product stability.- 5.10 Manufacture and quality control.- References.- Further reading.- 6 Afro products.- 6.1 Introduction.- 6.2 Hair structures.- 6.3 Skin characteristics.- 6.4 Hair products.- 6.5 Skin products.- 6.6 General practical considerations.- Further reading.- 7 Dental products.- 7.1 Introduction.- 7.2 The human dentition and its environment.- 7.3 Oral accretions and conditions.- 7.4 Oral-care products.- 7.5 Consumer practices.- 7.6 Oral-care product marketing.- 7.7 Principles of product formulation.- 7.8 Oral rinses.- 7.9 Active agents.- 7.10 Specialty products.- References.- 8 Perfumery.- 8.1 Introduction.- 8.2 Fragrance-a definition.- 8.3 Role of fragrance.- 8.4 Perfumery raw materials.- 8.5 Development of a fragrance.- 8.6 The current market in fine fragrance.- 8.7 Odour types.- 8.8 Technical performance of perfumes.- 8.9 Stability testing.- 8.10 Compounding.- 8.11 Quality control.- 8.12 Special additives.- 8.13 Glossary of odour descriptors.- Further reading.- 9 Personal hygiene products.- 9.1 Introduction.- 9.2 Soap and other solid bathing products.- 9.3 Liquid bathing and showering products.- 10 Antiperspirants and deodorants.- 10.1 Introduction.- 10.2 Regulations.- 10.3 Mechanism of sweating.- 10.4 Antiperspirant active properties.- 10.5 Clinical assessment.- 10.6 Formulary considerations.- 10.7 Formulations.- 10.8 Deodorants.- References.- Miscellaneous patentliterature.- 11 Regulation of cosmetic products.- 11.1 Historical development.- 11.2 Self-regulation.- 11.3 Regulation in the United States.- 11.4 Regulation in Europe.- 11.5 Regulation in Japan.- 11.6 Regulation in other countries.- 11.7 General considerations.- References.- 12 Quality.- 12.1 Introduction to quality.- 12.2 Definition of quality.- 12.3 Inspection.- 12.4 Prevention.- 12.5 Total quality.- 12.6 The new thinking.- 12.7 Quality standards and guides.- References.- Further reading.- 13 Environmental issues.- 13.1 Introduction.- 13.2 Raw materials.- 13.3 Energy.- 13.4 Water.- 13.5 Waste.- 13.6 Packaging waste.- 13.7 Eco labelling.- 13.8 Volatile organic compounds.- 13.9 Environmental management systems.- 13.10 Sources of information.- Appendices.- Appendix I List of suppliers.- Appendix II Useful addresses.
